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![]() Anyone else make soap???? (Page 2)
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| Author | Topic: Anyone else make soap???? |
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Bjerica Housesitter |
If it's humid the glycerin will actually attract the moisture in the air. A site I was looking at earlier said to wipe off the moisture and wrap in plastic wrap. I don't know if there is a way to "seal" the soap so it doesn't happen. IP: Logged |
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BionicGirl Housemate |
Okay, I was planning on making some soap this week but I have a few questions: 1. I'm just doing the melt and mold glyercin soap, is the container I use to melt it in going to be easy to clean afterwards, or do I need to use something I don't care about? 2. I'm going to set little toys into it. Obviously I need to wait until it sets a bit before putting the toys in, but any tips on that? How long to wait? What's the best consistency to add solid objects? 3. Won't adding food coloring cause stains later (like on a hand towel or washcloth)? Food coloring stains, man. IP: Logged |
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jescat Housemate |
A friend and I followed instructions from ReadyMade magazine and started making our own soap with lye and olive oil. Kinda dangerous and you have to be REALLY careful with the lye (insert Fight Club reference). It has to cure for at least 3 weeks before you use it, but once it's ready, the lye is all gone. We've made batches with green tea, milk, honey, oatmeal, and lots of different essential oils (not altogether obviously). It's fun and they're SO nice. We've made melt and pour glycerin too, but once you make soap from scratch, glycerin just feels like cheating. IP: Logged |
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crowjoy Housemate |
quote: 1. I used an old pyrex bowl that cleaned just fine though the soap that dribbled down the outside did slightly discolor the glass. So I think if you use a clear glass bowl you'd have no troubles. I've also melted it in styrofoam coffee cups and that worked out fine by stirring often. 2. When the soap starts to set it sets on the surface first, so if you wait too long to jam your toy in the surface won't recover. I didn't really have any issue with putting the stuff in pretty much right away. 3. I got coloring for soap because food coloring will make joke soap (bwa ha haaa.) The stuff inside the colored soap was more obscured than I guessed... you might want to experiment with color on less-prized objects. This might be inspiring me to go get my stuff out of the closet. IP: Logged |
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pollyhyper Housesitter |
quote: What if you pour the mold a little less than halfway full, let it set a little, and then put the toy in before finishing the pouring? Also, I have used food coloring, but never more than just a drop to make the soap tinted but not colored. Never had a problem with staining but I would imagine if you put too much in you would. IP: Logged |
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bekkaboo Housesitter |
When I made melt and mold, I used a Pyrex measuring cup and it came clean just fine - soaked it a bit, but it wasn't hard to clean at all. Also I've seen a "suspension formula" of the bars that you melt - I guess it's supposed to suspend objects better in the soap, so if you put them in right away they don't sink straight to bottom of the mold....I don't know if it's worth getting, I've never tried it and I don't know how it works - just a suggestion. I haven't used food coloring for soap, I used little bottles that looked like food coloring but were made for soap - I guess they don't stain like food coloring - and also there are the abovementioned crystals. [This message has been edited by bekkaboo (edited 02-04-2004).] IP: Logged |
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bekkaboo Housesitter |
I often get confused between edit and quote, don't mind me........ [This message has been edited by bekkaboo (edited 02-04-2004).] IP: Logged |
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luckychere Subletter |
I bought some soap to do rebatching, and I thought of a question. If you're mixing in seeds or anything small of the like, what prevents them from just sinking to the bottom of your soap once it's poured into the mold? I'm not talking about embedding objects, just adding lightweight seems, pumice, etc. I made some melt and pour glycerin soap in the past, and my pumice always sank to the bottom. I used it to my benefit to make great foot scrubbies, but it wasn't what I was initially going for. I'd like to prevent it this time around. Basically, the rebatching soap I bought I think was cold-processed (it's NOT glycerin soap), and made with the intention that you shred it, melt it, add your color and additives, etc. Similar to melt and pour glycerin but the process is a little more complicated, and the finished soap is hand-milled and much nicer. [This message has been edited by luckychere (edited 02-27-2004).] IP: Logged |
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bekkaboo Housesitter |
Some melt-and-pour soaps make a "suspension formula" that's supposed to keep stuff uniformly distributed throughout the soap, rather than just letting it sink to the bottom. I mentioned that above, but here's a link to one brand - it's the second one down on the page. I haven't tried it, so I don't know how well it works. Edited because "mantioned" is not a word, although it oughta be. [This message has been edited by bekkaboo (edited 02-27-2004).] IP: Logged |
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sweet tea Housemate |
Any one have any good ideas for packaging soaps? Usually I just stack a few together and sit them in the middle of a square of saran wrap, pull the corners together, twist and then tape the twisty part down... or tie a ribbon around the twisty part. It looks okay, but I'm trying to think of a more professional looking way to package my soaps. Any ideas? Sarah IP: Logged |
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hbdanielle Housemate |
quote: Maybe if you got some nice quality thick paper and wrapped it, like a present, and then sealed the part where the edges come together with sealing wax? I think I've seen some done like that at Crabtree & Evelyn. IP: Logged |
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pollyhyper Housesitter |
I've wrapped my soaps in two ways: 1. brown kraft paper and raffia 2. plastic (for the prettier ones) and raffia and then for both I made a little tag with the ingredients and soforth, and punched a hole in the corner of it, and tied that into the raffia. Just some ideas. IP: Logged |
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ralphyr Housemate |
quote: Sweet Tea, when you finish wrapping your soap heat it gently with a hairdryer. It will tighten the wrap and look very professional (the Bodyshop gift baskets are done in this way). Or you could nestle the soap in a face cloth, plonk it on a (dollarshop) soap dish and saran wrap it for a complete gift. IP: Logged |
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Eckerslie Housemate |
You may have overheated it when melting it. Don't melt it all the way - just until 95% of it's melted then let the residual heat melt the rest. IP: Logged |
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Eckerslie Housemate |
Yay BG for tackling soap!!! In answer to your q: quote: Imbedding is actually a bit hard than that as toys can sometims float to the surface. You can pour some m&p into icecube trays and set the toys onto the soap so that when it sets it has an anchor. Some toys it doesn't matter with - I've seen fish in a bag, and spiders and such. Very cute. quote: Nah food colouring is pretty harmless. The problem with food colouring though is that it isn't photo stable - it will fade really quickly in the light. It's also not especially concentrated so you need a lot to get a good colour and as it's water it can upset the balance in the soap. You might want to investigate real m&p colours - google it for someone near you. IP: Logged |
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Eckerslie Housemate |
quote: Making soap is so much fun! Just keep in mind though that: 1. Recipes in books and magazines are often not correctly balanced and you can end up with a soap that has far too much lye in it, or has too much oil left over. Soap isn't made perfectly balanced - it's made so that there is some oils left over to moisturise. Run any recipe through a calculator like the one on www.the-sage.com 2. Soap doesn't need to cure for any time before being used. The saponification process is actually over and done with in 24-48 hours and you can use the soap then. WHat it does need to do is dry out or else it dissolves really quickly. There are methods (discount water, hot process etc) that mean you can literally make the soap one day and use it the next! 3. I've been making soap for 6 years and really should just write a book rather than prattling on like this. IP: Logged |
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Eckerslie Housemate |
Hey luckychere: What you bought is indeed cold processed soap and is real soap as compared to m&p which is syndet. If you melt it slowly it will go like very thick cake batter so when you stir stuff in it won't sink. Your soap shouldn't need any extra liquid or else it can become alien brain soap when it dries. As you've found adding things into m&p doesn't work very well as it melts to a very thin liquid. You can wait until it is almost set before adding stuff though. IP: Logged |
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chitowngal Housesitter |
as posted by bosoxgirl in another thread:
quote: IP: Logged |
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