what you’ll need
bolster pillow form (firmer) or roll of quilt batting (cheaper)
fabric to cover the pillow
cord or ribbon to use for drawstrings
thread to match the fabric
scissors
tape measure
colored pencil that’ll show up on your fabric
sewing machine
skinny knitting needle, wire coat hanger, or some other device for threading drawstrings

time
an hour or so    

1 Measure the length, diameter, and circumference of your bolster pillow or batting roll. Don’t pull the tape measure too tight as you’re measuring the circumference, unless you want a very skinny, very firm pillow. (If math is your idea of fun, of course, it’s technically only necessary to measure the diameter of the pillow, from which you can then compute the circumference, since the circumference will equal pi*d. Or vice versa.)

pillow length = __________
pillow diameter = __________
pillow circumference = ___________

2 Figure out how much fabric and drawstring you’ll need:

fabric length L = 
pillow length + diameter + 1” hem* = ____________
fabric height H = 
pillow circumference + 1” hem + 1” extra breathing room** = ____________
drawstring length = 
pillow circumference + 10” = ______________

* Leave a bigger hem allowance for the fabric length if you’re using a fat cord for your drawstring; the 1” provides enough room for a thin 1/8” satin cord.
** This extra bit makes it a little easier to slide in the pillow, and allows for the slight bit of width you lose with the seam. It’s good to include it if you’re using the batting especially; if you’re covering a pillow form, and want a very snug fit, add in ½” instead of an inch to the measurement.

Measure, mark, and cut out your fabric. Cut out two drawstrings.

3 Place the fabric with the inside facing up. Press a ¼” hem, lengthwise, along the top and bottom of your fabric, with an iron. Use a zigzag stitch to sew it in place.

4 Press a 1/4” double hem on the two sides of the fabric, using an iron, then use a straight stitch, doing your best to keep the stitch as close to the edge of the hem as possible. This stitch will form the sleeve for the drawstrings, so it’s important not to let the opening get too narrow at any point.

5 Thread the drawstrings through each of the openings you’ve just made in step 4. I tape the end of my drawstring to a skinny knitting needle, then use the needle to help feed the string through, gathering up the fabric along the needle as I go. Once the tip of the needle pokes through the other side,  I untape the string, hold the string with one hand, and pull out the knitting needle from the other side. A disassembled wire coat hanger would work as well. Un-gather and flatten out the fabric. Tie double knots on each end of each drawstring.

6 With the fabric still inside out, fold it in half length-wise. (You can pin it in place if you like, but I’m usually too lazy to bother.) Sew a ¼” seam where the former top and bottom of the fabric meets together again (this will more or less be marked by the edge of your zigzag stitch from step 3). Be careful to start your stitch about ¼” in, or just a hair more, from either side, as you don’t want to sew your drawstring openings shut.

7 You should now have a lovely rectangle with drawstrings on either end. Flip the bolster cover right-side-out, then slide in your bolster pillow (or rolled length of batting). Cinch the ends shut, kick back and enjoy!

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